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On stage — Tirana Jazz Festival hits the open-air stages at the National Theatre this weekend. Saturday's late set is the one — Aida Çakaj fronts a trio that doesn't tour much outside the Balkans. Tickets, lineup, parking note for cars coming from the south: event details →
Where to eat — Mrizi i Zanave opened a second outpost in Tirana last week. Same kitchen, same farm-to-table approach, but closer to the city centre. We sent a reader and she came back convinced. Reservations: see listing →
On the road — SH75 between Përmet and Gjirokastër reopened on Tuesday after the spring landslide work. Saves you 40 minutes if you're driving the southern loop. The detour via Tepelenë is still scenic, but the time-cost is real.
One worth driving for — The Plaza Boutique in Tirana is the partner this week. 12 rooms, a hard 4.7 on guest reviews, and one of three Premium partners that takes guests without a booking through us. Story behind it: profile →
The newsletter is written by Dorian and Genc, the same two people who run the rest of the platform. No outsourced agency, no AI ghostwriting. We file Thursday night for a Friday 07:00 send across Europe — sometimes from a guesthouse in Theth, sometimes from a Tirana café, occasionally from an airport gate. If you reply to an issue, one of us reads it.
The full back-catalogue lives at /newsletter/archive/ — searchable, with the same editorial standard as the live issues. We do not memory-hole anything; if something was wrong, the correction goes at the top of the post, not in a quiet PDF revision.