Berat is bright, river-facing, and layered. Gjirokaster is steeper, darker, and more dramatic. They work best as a pair, but not as the same day.
SECTION 01
Berat
Go for the river view, Mangalem and Gorica quarters, castle churches, Onufri Museum, and wine country. Sleep inside or near the old quarters.
SECTION 02
Gjirokaster
Go for tower houses, the castle, the bazaar, Cold War tunnel, and southern cooking. The cobbles are part of the city, so wear proper shoes.
SECTION 03
How to connect them
Driving between the two takes time, but the route pairs well with Apollonia, Permet, or the Blue Eye depending on direction.
SECTION 04
The mistake
Do not reduce them to photo stops. Both cities are best in the morning and evening, when the architecture starts to feel lived in again.
Useful notes
- Sleep in a heritage guesthouse once.
- Tour at least one old house.
- Keep winery visits separate from castle-climbing hours.
